At 3, Alice Waters was sent off to a party wearing a radish bracelet, strawberry necklace and lettuce-leaf skirt assembled from her parents' Victory garden. It was the beginning of a lifetime of involvement with fresh foods. Chez Panisse, the restaurant she opened in Berkeley, Calif., in 1971, ranks among the best in the country. As a chef and food activist, she "may be the most influential figure in the past 30 years of the American kitchen," says Gourmet magazine. Waters, 61, talked with TIME's BARBARA ISENBERG about why consuming and appreciating natural foods is so important.
What sparked your passion...
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