The sandy bunkers of St. Andrews aren't the only tourist traps in the golf capital of Scotland. Just 14 km down the road, 30 m beneath a quaint stone farmhouse, is Scotland's Secret Bunker: the nuclear-proof headquarters for Scottish ministers, had the cold war got hot. Descend a gray metal staircase and down a 150-m, tungsten-reinforced tunnel to reach the bunker's red blastproof doors. From 1968 to 1992 these subterranean redoubts were manned by soldiers from the Royal Observer Corps; on guard today are uniformed mannequins, their lifelessness adding an apocalyptic chill to the air. It's like a musty James...
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