Lidia Matticchio Bastianich is only 58, but she doesn't seem to mind if you think she's older. She presents herself to the world in matronly blouses or patterned smocks, with a sensible shade of red lipstick and a welcoming smile gracing her lunar face. She is thick in the middle, sprightly of eye and possessed of powerful momma's hands that have built a multimillion-dollar restaurant-and-food empire.
More than that, she has lived a life so rich in history that, by comparison, the attractive twentysomethings the Food Network so desperately wants to turn into stars seem like brummagem pretenders. When Bastianich was...