A Saucy Joint

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It's Tuesday night, and you've booked a restaurant table for 7:30 p.m., only to be left standing in a queue until 8 p.m. When you're finally seated, the staff are surly throughout your meal, and try to cajole you into leaving before you've finished. Tayyabs — a Pakistani diner in London's gritty Whitechapel district — is that kind of place.

So why do hordes of Londoners crowd into the eatery every night of the week? Because Tayyabs dishes up the most sublime — and possibly the cheapest — subcontinental cooking in the Big Smoke. Start with...

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