It appears on your right as you go around the temple, and you wonder at once if that is the tree: an ancient-looking, sprawling tree with a massive trunk and a zone of deep, hypnotizing shade at its center. A middle-aged Japanese man dressed in white, wearing a mask, is meditating in its shadow. Behind him two Tibetan monks are counting off their prayer beads and whispering. But as you walk to the back of the temple, you see another tree, even larger, with green metal beams holding up its branches. There is a stone fence around it; a sign says,...
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