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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) The inland town of Ubud is known as the cultural hub of Bali. But before you picture a tranquil artists' community, where the reverent silence of masters at work is broken only by tropical birdsong and the lilt of a distant gamelan, let us put you straight. Ubud is a hot and raucous place — and you're more likely to run into T shirt hawkers than artists. Visitors are also often struck by the uneven quality and random subject matter of the work on display.

Many...