Old Wine in New Bottles

Like hemlines and flares, wine varieties go in and out of style. One year, Chardonnay or Pinot Gris find acceptance; the next they're passé, as fickle wine drinkers move on to Riesling or Chenin Blanc. Trying to second guess the next big variety is a favorite pastime of winemakers, especially now that the popular appetite for fresh, young wines—so characteristic of the last ten years—has been satiated and yearns for something different. To pique the interest of drinkers, an increasingly common industry tactic is the revival of old varieties. In fact, it could be time to put down that modern, unoaked...

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