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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) Like hemlines and flares, wine varieties come in and out of style. One year, Chardonnay or Pinot Gris find acceptance; the next they're passé, as fickle wine drinkers move on to Riesling or Chenin Blanc. Trying to second-guess the next big variety is a favorite pastime of winemakers, especially now that the popular appetite for fresh, young wines — so characteristic of the last 10 years — has been satiated and yearns for something different. To pique the interest of drinkers, an increasingly common industry tactic is the revival of old varieties. In...