Best Bar in the Middle of Nowhere

Le Jovial Jarai would have few customers were it not for the Soviet-built, twin-propeller Antonovs that skid down the nearby gravel runway every other day, disgorging their payloads of aid workers, officials and the occasional tourist. The unpaved roads—which are nothing more than gullies of red dust in the dry season and rutted mud traps in the wet—certainly don't bring in much business. Neither would you expect a lot of walk-in traffic here in sleepy Banlung, capital of Cambodia's northeastern Ratanakiri province. But its up-country isolation is part of the beauty of this bar and restaurant—and getting here is not just...