In Colorado: A Great Fondness for Country Tunes

The road directions to the headquarters of the Loretta Lynn International Fan Club were the sort the skeptical traveler longs for: clear, fail-safe. East out of Denver to Limon. south out of Limon to Wild Horse, left on Road 9 and right on Road Y. Road Y, explained Loudilla Johnson, co-president of the club along with her sisters Loretta and Kay, "doesn't go anywhere but here."

An occasional wrinkle, an odd hitch in these tidy instructions pops up in the form of a fierce local sirocco that hurls itself at cyclonic force across the plains of eastern Colorado. It moves as...

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