The center of Germany's Rheingau wine region is Rüdesheim, a charming town of 10,000. I visited last August, days before the hordes descended for the annual wine festival. My first stop was with Johannes Leitz of the Josef Leitz Weingut (winery). Leitz has been called one of the superstars of the region for his complex, naturally made wines.
According to Leitz, a secret of German Riesling is the soil's quartz and slate. When one tastes beautifully made Riesling, the minerals are obvious. With time, their flavors evolve into those of rose water, litchi and apricot, with a splash of acidity. That...
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