Preserving Paradise

For the fishermen who trawl its azure waters, the East African island of Misali offers sustenance both physical and spiritual. The fishermen, who still measure time not by a calendar but by the waxing and waning of the moon, haul in enough fish and octopus to feed their families. For centuries they also took their sick to the island's subterranean caves, where traditional healers prayed for their health and offered food to the spirits to ensure bountiful catches. According to tradition, the island got its name when the Islamic prophet Hadhara appeared in a vision and asked for a prayer mat,...