Can't Go Home Again

Fadi Dawish, 28, is behind the counter of his grocery store, counting change in almost total darkness. He gets only a few hours of electricity a day, just like the other crumbling shops and dwellings along Salameh Street in Beirut's Sabra refugee camp, where smelly piles of garbage sit uncollected and the water supply swims with disease. Even when the lights are on, Dawish has to strain as he adds up the day's receipts because of the deep shrapnel gash over his left eye from Israel's onslaught against Palestinians in Lebanon 19 years ago. Recently,

Dawish saw...