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The flamboyant Florentine chef Fabio Picchi now rules all four corners of the Sant' Ambrogio quarter: his Teatro del Sale, housed in part of a former 14th century convent, is his latest stage set. The justly celebrated (and very pricey) Il Cibrčo came first in 1979, followed quickly by the more affordable Trattoria Cibreo, then the Cibrčo Caffč across the street. At the convivial Teatro del Sale, a membership fee of $7 opens the door to a buffet of creative yet nostalgic cuisine (prix fixe $32), with a theatrical revue or concert after dinner. Picchi calls his new labor of...

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