Fashion: She's Pretty, But Antsy

The SPRING COLLECTIONS try to bring breezy optimism to an industry in a state of change

Minutes before the first model appeared on the runway at the Calvin Klein show during Fashion Week in New York City, an uncomfortable silence settled over the journalists, buyers and society figures assembled in a Chelsea photography studio. Standing in view of the crowd was Klein himself, surrounded by several p.r. handlers and the CEO of Phillips--Van Heusen, the giant shirt company that acquired Klein's label for $438 million earlier this year. Here was an icon of American fashion, the man who gave the world designer denim in the '70s and put underwear over the top in the '80s, a mere...

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