Excess Is Hardly Enough

Shall I have the brains? Would that be better copy for you?" It would. So Nigella Lawson--former newspaperwoman, member of PEOPLE'S 50 Most Beautiful People list and reigning cookbook queen--has the calf's brains. She also has the octopus salami, the gnocchi with zucchini flowers, spaghetti with sardines, Tuscan steak, crispy duck and other gourmet victuals--many of which originally resided on my plate.

Lawson is in New York City to promote her latest cookbook, Forever Summer. We've decided to go on an eating date to three Manhattan restaurants of her choice--one each for appetizers, entrees and desserts. "Eating is more fun than...

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