Beyond Brown Cow

Specialty yogurts are multiplying. But do they taste any better?

The renowned Greek physician Galen wrote about the beneficial health effects of yogurt back in the 2nd century A.D. It took nearly 1,800 years before Americans turned it into a health-food staple. While such old standbys as Dannon and Yoplait continue to feed most of the yogurt demand, offbeat yogurts--many of them made from different kinds of milk--have been popping up on gourmet and health-food store shelves. One longtime favorite of yogurt aficionados--the Greek-made Total, which has both cow's-milk and sheep's-milk varieties--was introduced in New York City ethnic groceries in 2000; sales have since doubled, and the yogurt has just been...

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