Tucked in among Home Depot, Starbucks and Target and ringed by acres of asphalt, the Gigante grocery store in Santa Fe Springs, Calif., about half an hour's drive east of Los Angeles, looks like any suburban supermarket. But step inside. Colorful pinatas hang from the ceiling. Bilingual signs promise shoppers el mejor precio. Produce gets lots of territory close by the entrance, where display islands overflow with crunchy jicamas, ripe papayas and dozens of varieties of chili peppers, from fiery serranos to sweet chipotles. The aroma of freshly made tortillas wafts from the bakery. Butchers serve up not only standard cuts...
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