"We are selling dreams. We are merchants of happiness," chef Bernard Loiseau once said. The ebullient Loiseau ran one of only 25 restaurants in France awarded three stars by the all-powerful Michelin guide. His Cote d'Or restaurant in Saulieu in Burgundy is a shrine to detail, to perfection on a plate. And like the other markets for dreams and happiness--films, say, or fashion or narcotics--it was a brutal pursuit. Loiseau had not taken a vacation in four years. He had planned one for this winter, but last week another French restaurant guide, GaultMillau, inexplicably reduced his ranking for the first time...
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