Who Really Owns That Winery?

Times are tough in the industry, so the big players are growing by gobbling up smaller wineries

Jon Moramarco has wine in his blood. His ancestors made wine for eight generations in southern Italy, and after his grandfather Giuseppe emigrated to the U.S., he bought a winery in Los Angeles from the Jesuits during Prohibition. Jon's father was an expert in vine management--the pruning, spacing, grape thinning and irrigating that influence the quality of the grapes and the taste of the wine. As a young boy, Jon cleared weeds between the vines. He later went to work at the Callaway winery as a "cellar rat," cleaning tanks, moving barrels, stacking bottles and sometimes working 19-hr. days during the...

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