Wander at night through the center of Moscow, past the casinos with their grand prizes--a sports car, a small helicopter--hoisted up on platforms, past the young girl offering to rent out her horse for a late-evening ride, and you realize that the Russian capital is like nowhere else. It's a showplace for excess but also a village: many grim Stalin-era buildings encircle cozy courtyards where children play on swings and pensioners walk their dogs. One of the delights of today's Moscow is that its food spans the same wild spectrum: from world class to high kitsch to the products of its...
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