Have You Ever Tried Ashcakes?

They ate critters, roots and dusty muffins. Our critic samples the menu

We know from the internet that everything has its freaks. There are freaks for Legos, for presidential graves and for women who kill rodents with stiletto heels. But with the Internet, you always suspect that these people are half ironic, that part of their fun is pretending to be obsessed. The Lewis and Clark fanatics, for the most part, do not build fan sites.

I went to meet some of these people when my editors decided they'd like me to eat the kind of food that Lewis and Clark ate. This was not the subtlest of the many ways in which...

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