At Pennsylvania's Ground Zero


You would have to leave the country to find a place further in spirit from downtown Manhattan than Shanksville, Pa., the rural hamlet where United Airlines Flight 93 crashed on Sept. 11. It is a town with no stoplights or sewers or banks. It's home to just 245 residents--244.5 of them white--who attend three lively churches and are embarrassingly nice to strangers. The closest Starbucks is a two-hour drive.

Yet on any given day, a steady stream of cars find their way there. On weekends, more than 1,000 visitors may show up to look at the little town that taught...

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