When Rare Isn't Fresh Enough

Would you like that well done, medium, rare--or raw? An emerging group of chefs is creating fancy, fussed-over dishes that have never met the flame of a grill or the zap of a microwave. It's the raw-food revolution. In New York City, Quintessence, a popular downtown raw eatery that fashions ravioli shells from uncooked turnip slices, recently opened an uptown branch and plans to launch another next month. North of Boston in Beverly, Mass., Organic Garden Restaurant just expanded its raw menu to meet popular demand. In Larkspur, Calif., outside San Francisco, the upscale Roxanne's debuted four months ago to rave...

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