Reporters' Notebook

We asked three of our journalists for insights from behind the scenes--with Colin Powell, on Palestinian battlegrounds, and with terminally ill U.S. guinea pigs

MASSIMO CALABRESI, TIME's diplomatic correspondent, traveled last week with Colin Powell during the Secretary of State's peace mission to the Middle East.

"There's something about going to Jerusalem with U.S. diplomats that's different from other State Department trips. Everyone feels the tension here. The stillness of the Sabbath, the call of the muezzin and the tolling of the church bells create an atmosphere of beauty and piety and fear. Every place, no matter how ordinary, seems burdened with the years of violence. Outside our hotel four months ago, a Palestinian suicide bomber blew himself up, wounding two people and sending his...

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