Exporting: A Yen For Pork

Family farmers learn to survive by tailoring their pigs to Japanese tastes

The plight of the family farm was a cause celebre in the '80s, when Willie Nelson played at Farm Aid and Sam Shepherd starred in the film Country. But after the hubbub died down in the past decade, the situation actually grew worse. More than half of Iowa's pork producers went under in the '90s, with some 16,000 dropping out in the decade's last two years alone.

Dale and Lisa Siebrecht, now 42 and 41, feared they would join their fallen comrades. Although their two family lines boast seven generations of farmers, the marketplace did not care, paying out only 38[cents]...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now

Subscribe
Subscribe

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!