"I have the most satisfying job in Juarez," says Arturo Chavez. He drives what the locals call a pipa, or water pipe. For poor Mexican neighborhoods like Anapra, a desert slum of 5,000 families with no water or sewer lines, tanker trucks like Chavez's are the only source of water clean enough for drinking and bathing. So when pipa No. 415 pulls up over the dunes, it's a community event: families emerge from their shanties as if to greet a rich uncle bearing gifts. Chavez pumps 500 gal. of free water into concrete cubes called pilas, which, say residents, can also...
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