Still doing holiday shopping but want an alternative to stepping into mall madness and tackling commercial clutter? Consider a trip to Manhattan's downtown. New York's East Village has a history of anarchy, counterculture and edginess. In keeping with the neighborhood tradition of rebellion, a group of nine entrepreneurs recently formed the Designers of the East Village Association or, simply, DEVA.
By making up their own shopping universe, these stars of style are determined
to impede the encroachment of mass merchandisers on their turf. All members
of DEVA conceive, create and execute original designs on-site. With goods ranging
from haute clothing to one-of-a-kind millinery to jewelry to wearable antiques,
DEVA represents a shopping experience where personal touch is the rule. Meet
the DEVAs:
CHERRY BISHOP
117 East 7th Street (First & Avenue A)
212.529.4608 Hours: 1 p.m.–8 p.m., Wed.–Mon. Closed Tues. All major credit
cards.
New Zealand–born Cherry Bishop began her career in Australia, where she received training in dress design at the Sydney Institute of Technology. After making a name for herself by selling her fashions at the local Paddington flea market, she moved to New York in 1989 and the following year opened her own boutique, Halo, in the East Village. While Halo gained notoriety as one of the most fashion-forward destinations in the area, Bishop continued her studies in 1995 at Fashion Institute of Technology.
In summer 2000 she opened her namesake boutique. A bias-cut wool jersey skirt
of pinkish cranberry ($80) or purple microfiber pants ($120) makes an office-appropriate
match with a classic white cotton shirt ($90). The designer pays special attention
to fit and will make alterations in a pattern immediately if she sees it's not
working on her customers. "If it doesn't fit, it doesn't sell," she remarks.
Bishop's creations are stocked in sizes ranging from a petite 2 to a voluptuous
16 and can be made in larger sizes to order.
CHIMAERA
117 East 7th Street (Between First & Ave.
A) 212.475.8898 Hours: 2 p.m.–8 p.m., Wed.–Sun. All major credit cards.
Gift-wrapping, special sizing and local delivery available.
Chimaera, the she-monster of Greek mythology portrayed with a
lion's head, goat's body and serpent's tail, has come to represent an unattainable
or foolish fancy. It's no wonder that designer/silversmith Robin Morris's boutique/workshop
is so named, as she fuses sterling silver into intricate, elegant and seemingly
impossible designs. In her words, she is "open to enchantment" and takes inspiration
from the grandeur of nature and the traditional crafts of Borneo. Her playful,
bold, futuristic design sense produces pieces that are edgy and abstract, yet
lyrical and sensuous. Showcases lined with desert litter, sand and slate display
jewelry with names like Sea King, Pillow or Little Devil. Morris's newest Organic
limited edition of wearable art pieces includes rings representing fire and
water, massive bands set with cabochon stones or carved with geometric symbols,
open-work sculpted cuffs and graceful pendants. Trying on is encouraged as Morris
likes to "make up my own rules" with her unique designs. Bracelets ($45–$300)
or rings ($45–$80) are popular items as well as custom-made work. Morris,
a student of the arts since childhood, graduated from The High School of Art
& Design, and majored in set design at New York University's Tisch School of
the Arts. She subsequently left school to pursue her passion for jewelry design
and opened her own successful studio in Tribeca, where she worked in acrylics.
After taking some time off from jewelry design to explore the field of architectural
restoration, she returned to jewelry but in a different medium — silver.
She opened Chimaera in October 2000.
FEBRUARY ELEVENTH
315 E. 9th Street 212.529.1175 Hours:
7 days; 1 p.m.–9:30 p.m. All major credit cards.
February Eleventh is the birthday of its proprietress Ruth Dorsla,
a Liberian-born designer whose dreamy specialties include silk embroidery, crochet
and hand-dyes in items such as wraps, ponchos, dresses, blouses, dusters and
scarves. It's a shop that satisfies the appetites of rock-star aggressives and
ethereal earth goddesses equally. Her hand-dyes are known for their exceptional
and sometimes startling color combinations, a talent she attributes to "having
no color sense." Dorsla explains that unlike in New York, where black is a fashion
staple (a code she encountered upon arriving at the Fashion Institute of Technology),
in West Africa, vibrant colors are fashion-forward. Unique colorings and mixed
textures result as different fabrics react unpredictably to a two-step dye process,
making many of her creations one-of-a-kind. Her dye expertise was born out of
necessity as a small shop owner since larger dye houses only handle wholesale
quantities. Scarves can be purchased for the head, neck, or cumber bands for
($40–$350). To top off her special occasion selections for holiday 2000 she
also produces hair ornaments and other accessories. Says Dorsla, "My shop is
all about romance... and color."
BARBARA FEINMAN MILLINERY
66 East 7th Street (Second
& First Aves.) 212.358.7092 Hours: Mon.–Sat. 12:30–8 p.m., Sun. 1–7
p.m. All Credit Cards.
Combining timeless design elegance with impeccable workmanship,
a fashion-forward eye and more than a dash of whimsy, Barbara Feinman sold her
hat designs for several years to a number of leading retailers before opening
her own atelier shop in 1998. In its first year it was listed No. 4 in the "50
Great New Stores" in New York Magazine's 1998 Christmas shopping guide. It is
also listed in this year's "New York Magazine Shops — A Guide to the Best
Stores in New York." With one of the very few shops in the city where hats are
actually made on the premises, Barbara and apprentice designer Mei Lan Low hand-block
and hand-craft hats from start to finish using techniques and equipment scarcely
changed since the 19th century. Says Feinman, "Some of the wood blocks we use
are probably 100 years old, and the sewing machine we sew hats on, called a
setup machine, is a refurbished antique. You can't buy a new one; the machines
are not manufactured anymore." Styles range from fedoras to cloches and are
made for men and women. Although custom-made, most hats are under $200 and made
with quality fabrics and timeless style. Feinman studied English at Vassar College,
then spent almost 20 years in corporate jobs. On a lark she registered in a
millinery class at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and 10 years later she
had a career doing what she always loved best — working with her hands. Her
designs reflect her cross-section of customers, from uptown matrons to Japanese
tourists, and she asserts, "There really is no substitute for a handmade hat."
Feinman also stocks modestly priced jewelry, bags, scarves and gloves. Custom
hats are available for 10 percent extra.
GALLERY VERCON
332 East 9th Street 212.473.0506 7 Days,
12 noon–8 p.m. All Credit Cards.
Nestled in the tree-lined coziness of East 9th Street, Gallery
Vercon has showcased brilliant accessories and clothing for more than a decade.
It is here that owner Vashti de Verteuil, who came to New York from her native
Trinidad, also designs and sells her line of jewelry. She mainly works with
sterling silver, semiprecious stones and fresh-water pearls to create classic
delicate, feminine pieces. On display are tantalizing examples of mixed semiprecious
stones of blue and gray hues set in 14-karat white gold, and sterling rings
and necklaces. Her rings are often used as alternatives to the traditional wedding
band, and her earrings and bracelets are office-appropriate. In addition to
jewelry, De Verteuil designs belts and scarves for specialty stores, boutiques
and department stores, as well as special order bridal headpieces. De Verteuil
studied fashion design at FIT, and then decided to become an accessories designer.
With a background that includes accessory design for Yves St. Laurent, De Verteuil
is also an instructor at Parsons School of Design, teaching courses in sterling
silver jewelry, beading on fabric, applique, and combined beading and embroidery,
the latter being one of the most sought-after accessory trends for holiday 2000.
Gallery Vercon also carries handmade accessories by other designers such as
hats, scarves and ties.
JOANIE JAMES NY
117 E. 7th Street 212.505.9653 Hours:
1 p.m.–7 p.m., Tues.–Sun. American Express, Visa, MasterCard
Joanie James NY specializes in clothing for women's sizes 4–14
and girls from infant to size 10. Her women's wear is unique in that it is cut
to flatter the feminine, hourglass figure. Using design categories targeted
to satisfy the needs of today's multifaceted woman, James' silk evening wear
line has "fancy dress" appeal for formal wear, brides, bridesmaids and flower
girls. Her wool jersey knits make a classy transition from the office to after
work; and stretch velvets work for every day as well as parties and nightclubbing.
An elegant emerald green glitter tank dress ($109) and its matching self-tie
jacket with lettuce edging along the sleeves and hem ($79) can be coordinated
with an emerald green velvet ensemble in girls' sizes from infant ($25/dress
and $25/jacket) to 10-year-old ($65/dress and $39/jacket). The fabrication used
in the girls' line is the same as the women's line, making stylish possibilities
for distinctive "mother-daughter" ensembles. James' girls' line is currently
wholesaled under the name JJNY Kids. Her girls' line, inspired and road-tested
by her 6-year-old, is stretchy and comfortable. James also carries a line of
sophisticated sweaters by Jamie Krietman, scarves by Ellen Martin and hats by
Barbara Volker. James — a graduate of Mundelein College in Chicago, where
she majored in textile and clothing and minored in business — worked as an
assistant designer and pattern maker in various sportswear companies before
moving to New York. Joanie James NY is now a 10-year institution in the East
Village's fashion row.
NO XS
80 East 7th Street 212.674.6753 Hours: 12–8
p.m., Wed.–Sat; 2–6 p.m. Sun. Visa/MasterCard. Knitting classes by appointment
only. Call for schedule of upcoming knitting parties.
A crowd gathers in front of the window of NO XS to watch a scene
serenely out of place on this trendy stretch of street. More than a dozen people
are seated inside, needles poised, as owner Michele Renee hosts one of her popular
monthly knitting parties. Renee, who also attracts a crowd when she pulls out
her just-like-the-fairy-tale spinning wheel, creates couture, hand-dyed yarn.
Her knits are available in cotton to cashmere and include handmade sweaters,
skirts, dresses, hats, scarves and quirky but useful knit accessories (cuffs
that transform into a scarf for $95). Yarn, patterns and knitting supplies are
also available. Stitch by stitch, row by row, the French-born, Brooklyn-bred
designer has woven a renewed interest in knitting. Her love of texture, flair
for structure and ease with knitting needles has gained a following that has
included Julia Roberts, Paulina Porizkova, Sarah Jones, Rosie Perez, Lauryn
Hill, Benjamin Bratt and Tricky, to name a few trend-spotters. The "knittress"
prides herself on giving customers the personal touch. "Because knitwear follows
the line of the body, and every body is different, getting a knit garment in
proportion to your size and shape is a must. I feel a one-on-one connection
is essential," says Renee. One of the designer's sweater creations is featured
in Vogue's Winter 2000/2001 issue.
THE SHAPE OF LIES
127 East 7th Street 212.533.5920
Hours: Sat. 12–8 p.m., Sun. 12–6 p.m. Please call for additional holiday
hours. All Credit Cards.
"You're only as important as the person who insults you," said
Peggy Yunque after the infamous Mr. Blackwell chastised Hillary Rodham Clinton
for wearing the same lapel pin (designed by Peggy) every day during the 1992
campaign. "That very same crossed-wings pin continues to be one of my most popular
classic designs." This iconoclastic jewelry designer began her career as a supplier
of replica jewelry for such institutions as the Boston Museum of Fine Arts,
the New York Public Library and the Walters Art Gallery of Baltimore. A true
craftsperson, she makes designs inspired by ancient artifacts rich in symbolic
meaning. "Nobody leaves without a lecture," laughs Yunque while describing the
ornamentation and beadwork process. If she's too busy for a lecture, she provides
history cards with a purchase. These diminutive works of wearable art have become
must-haves among shoppers seeking items of intellectual and emotional value.
You will also find items inspired by Yunque's fascination with functionality,
such as brooch pins designed to hold reading glasses and 1840's style Victorian
spine bookmarks ($28–$38). Many items are graced with uncommon and richly
colored European beads, adding texture, and they all make thoughtful and impressive
gifts. Antique beads also adorn her brilliant deco glass necklaces — a colorful
high note in this season's collection. For the 24-hour shopper, a collection
of her unique jewelry and gifts can be seen at www.solnyc.com.
NICOLE VAUGHN
110 E. 7th Street 212.477.3937 Mon. 4–8
p.m.; Tues., Fri., Sun. 1–8 p.m.; Sat. 12–8 p.m. Visa/MasterCard
In pursuit of her own line, Nicole Vaughn took her design training and experience downtown to East 7th Street. With a storefront reminiscent of a girlfriend's bedroom, Nicole Vaughn offers classics with a modern flair. "Every time you walk in it's a different store," she explains. Her mix of casual, comfortable separates coordinated to suit the ever-changing needs of the creative working woman has a dedicated following. Her clients have been known to come in with sketches, especially for special occasion dresses ($150–$300). Vaughn is passionate about a shopping atmosphere and clothes that flatter all figures, including those of curvy, strong, healthy women. Her dresses are simple and elegant, draped in matte jersey and rich stretch velvet. Her casual separates range an affordable $69 to $89 and are snapped up quickly. When asked about her prices she quips, "I want to see [the clothes] on the girls, not on hangers." Since the shop window is close to the street, Vaughn gets to take lots of mental style notes. The East Village influence is found in the attention to detail, be it a faux fur collar, a tapestry print or a funky button. Each collection highlights the basic black to which she finds her customers are strongly addicted.