After a fortifying breakfast of creamy grits, scrambled eggs, and fried fish at the counter of legendary Sylvia's, I started my journey on the east side of 125th Street heading west along this artery of Harlem commerce.
Sylvia's Restaurant
328 Lenox Avenue (Bet. 126th & 127th Streets)
212-996-0660
Mon-Fri 7:30 a.m.- 10:30 p.m.; Sun 11a.m.- 8 p.m.
In the waiting area of the restaurant is a small boutique of mugs, spices, and savories for tourists or loyal locals. Sylvia's Family Cook Book can be purchased along with her mixes of lemon pepper, cornbread, hot sauce, and muffin mix. A rousing gospel brunch begins on Sundays at 12:30.
Progressive Unlimited
14 East 125th Street (Bet. Madison and Fifth Avenues)
212-427-7084
Mon- Sat 11a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
"Come take a plunge at the oasis," is what the Harlem native of this eclectic grotto opines. Wind chimes, fountains, and candles with the warm touch of African and Native American Diasporas sell for less than $50. Ask for a demonstration of the "Magic Dress" ($80- $90) available in vivid solid and multi-colors.
The Brownstone
2032 Fifth Avenue (Bet. 125th & 126th Streets)
212-996-7980
Tue- Sat 11 a.m.- 7 p.m.
Imagine friends who shopped the exotic bazaars of the world invited you to tour their home. You peruse heritage inspired jewelry, clothing, handbags, furnishings, dining ware, cosmetics, and perfumes. Your hostess offers you a massage or make-up lesson. Or you sip herbal tea or coffee and cake in the Kafe. These lifestyle boutiques showcased in a Harlem brownstone tempt a plucky shopper to spend all afternoon.
Harlem Underground
2027 5th Avenue (Bet. 125th & 126th Streets)
212-987-9385
Mon- Thurs 10-7; Fri- Sat 10-8
Customize clothing and accessories with embroidery of your own choosing. Or select from ready to wear urban logos, hip tees, and fly monograms. As creators of the official Harlem USA tee-shirts these products have quality and style. Watch the staff work the machine.
Enchanted Harlem
1 West 125th Street (Bet. Fifth and Lenox Avenues)
212-987-3620
Mon- Sat 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Sun 12 noon- 4 p.m.
A chalkboard sign invites the shopper into this space chock full of clothing, accessories, jewelry, and artifacts discovered by its proprietress, Aziza. Paintings by Parsons School of Design student, Maple Turner III are prominently on display and jewelry designed by Ona can be purchased for $25 to $150.
Bargain World Discount Store
8 West 125th Street (Bet. Fifth and Lenox Avenues)
212-289-4216Z
Mon-Wed, Fri, Sat 9-6:30; Thu 9- 7 p.m.
Under this one roof you'll find washing machines, silk flowers, furniture, toys, linens, pots, and pans. Smocked and attentive sales staff will assist you in this retail labyrinth with their unique style of service. On the ground floor, ceramic black panthers pose among the branches of silk plants and painted ethnic masks. Beaded curtains ($18) are a fun and funky purchase.
African Paradise
27 West 125th Street
(Bet. Fifth & Lenox Avenues)
212-348-0409
Mon- Sat 10 a.m.- 7:30 p.m.; Sun 12 noon- 6 p.m.
This fascinating stockroom of imports from The Motherland is a browsers joy. Baskets and bins filled with delightfully rustic wood and metal sculpture; jewelry; and cloth book jackets and bags are less than $30. Other art is priced in hundreds of dollars.
Acres of Diamonds
371 Lenox Avenue (Bet. 128th & 129th Streets)
212-222-5895
Mon- Thu 12 noon- 6:30 p.m.; Fri- Sat 12 noon- 7 p.m.
Sun 12 noon- 5p.m.
Valerie, this shop's owner, has realized a dream of providing dolls of color for the collector or novice. Porcelain dolls, spoon dolls, painted faces on frying pans; soap holders with brown faces and an expanding line of doll handicrafts line the walls of this gutsy store. With the sturdy Bag Lady, stash excess shopping bags in style ($45).
One Good Thing: Art & Soul Collectibles
367 Lenox Avenue (Bet. 128th & 129th Streets)
646-342-7389
Call for hours.
Sydney Kai Inis, photo stylist and events planner set up a spot for merchandising found objects and her own redesigned and reinterpreted artifacts and objects of art. As a shop and gallery, she aims to mount a show or original fine art every three months with no piece priced over $600. Clemenza Hawkins exhibits a Harlem themed show through Summer 2001.
Rainbow Music Shop
102 West 125th Street
(Bet. Lenox and Fredrick Douglas Avenues)
212-864-5262
Mon- Thu 10:30 a.m.- 7 p.m.;
Fri- Sat 10:30 a.m.- 9 p.m.
In the shadow of the Apollo is this source of gospel infused media. This friendly shop of dutiful staffers will help find CDs, cassettes, or videos of traditional devotion or hip-hop hallelujah!
Universal Woodworks
2065 Adam Clayton Powell Blvd. (Bet. 123rd & 124th Streets)
212-866-5231
Mon- Fri 9:30 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Sat 10:30- 4:30 p.m.
Juan Lara was a Latin dancer and singer before being introduced to woodworking. Regarding this work as an essential like food, by 1986 he apprenticed to a cabinetmaker and seven years after toiled in a basement shop. In 1995, he became owner of this storefront showcase and workshop. Letter holders, games, and pencil holders sell for $25. Beds, bookcases, tables, entertainment centers, coat racks, computer desks can be custom ordered in modern or country style.
Grandview
2531 Frederick Douglass Blvd.
(Bet. 135th and 136th Street)
212-694-7324
Mon- Fri 12 noon-7 p.m.; Tue, Sat, Sun 1 p.m.- 6 p.m.
Segue to Striver's Row and this artfully appointed store carrying women's garments in sizes 2 to 22. Carefully chosen designs retail from $40 to custom wear at $500. A hot pink sequined top by Custo of Barcelona ($88) was only one of the "just right" accessories and fashion. Ask about upcoming shopping tours of Harlem.
Although tired, Reggae beats bouncing off the soulful wails of Sam Cooke and Otis Redding irresistibly call me east again. I purchase a cassette from "Powell" at 125th and Fifth Avenue called "Classic Soul 2" for $5. Blithely bootleg oldies, this compilation of soul tunes is the bargain of the day. It's the essence of this new Harlem Renaissance: Faith, Joy, Beauty and Soul wrapped in global entrepreneurial vision. It's been said faith the size of a mustard seed can move mountains. So, mountains don't get in Harlems way!
Scores more destinations I have yet to discover. Inquire of the vendors listed or the NYC Tourist Board for a copy of the brochure and start your own stroll.
Harlem Links: In the Bag
Harlem Live: Harlems Youth Internet Publication