Junya Watanabea Tokyo-based protege of Rei Kawakubois one of the most audacious talents on the runway, and his spring show was a study in how to take formal fabrics like jacquard, barathea and even white cotton shirting and reconstruct them in slender, Edwardian shapes.
Viktor & Rolf also touched on the theme of formality and showed their collection of Ice Capades-inspired clothes against the backdrop of a full orchestra and Rufus Wainwright singing "Somewhere Over The Rainbow." A pair of ballroom dancers opened the show and four pairs of male-on-male ballroom dancers closed it. The purpose was to launch their new men's fragrance, Antidote, but this witty Amsterdam-based duo are not afraid to add a bit of social commentary to their work.
If Martin Margiela's wit were a bit more conspicuous his shows would have the kind of appeal they deserve. He played with the idea of being dressed and undressedusing nude mesh to trompe l'oeil effect on slinky silk jersey dresses and tailored tuxedos.